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in
wine today
GWU and MWWG defend Presidential
Sommelier
By
Georges Meekers
In a statement issued early this morning, both the General Workers
Union (GWU) and the Malta Wine Waiters Guild (MWWG) stand by the
wine choice of the presidential sommelier who has temporarily been
suspended from presidential wine service.
A political storm over a controversial bottle of wine broke loose
last Friday when the presidential sommelier handpicked from the
wine cellars under The Palace a Swiss 1997 magnum of L’Arbalete
by J&P Testuz.
This grand cru dry-white comes from Dézaley, 50 ha of steep
terraced vineyards rising directly from the bank of Lake Geneva.
It’s the top appellation of the Vaud in Switzerland.
This surprisingly intense example of the Chasselas variety, or Fendant
as the grape is known in Switzerland, was chosen to accompany the
Chicken Chasseur prepared in honour of the special European Commission
envoy dining at The Palace.
When one of the French dignitaries raised objections upon the ritual
assessment of the pulled cork, it was too late to spare the President
diplomatic embarrassment.
The GWU and the MWWG maintain that the resultant suspension is politically
motivated, since the Swiss wine in question, full and well-structured,
with leafy, nutty fruit and good length and a slight prickle is
a good match with the 'carte du jour'.
A spokesperson for The Palace however publicly stated that the presidential
sommelier has been suspended solely on the merits of his professional
capacity.
"Of course the President is now aware of the political implications
behind the Swiss wine label. Regardless of its Swiss origin, the
wine should never have been put on the wine list, as the Chasselas
grape is not a noble grape variety. Besides, the magnum was ‘tainted’
and such is unpardonable."
The MWWG retaliated that the allegations of Chasselas being merely
a table grape are simply not founded. The GWU readily admits that
a (red) Pinot Noir would have been a better pairing still, but sustains
that the presidential sommelier has followed the invested procedure
while making his wine choice, which had received the presidential
seal of approval.
In
next week's edition of This Week, Zillah Bugeja’s full-page
interview with the presidential sommelier will reveal whether the
magnum was indeed corked or not.
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