In fact, Apuglia has a long tradition of grape growing but this area was until recently looked down upon as Europe's main source of cheap blending wines, red and white, for production of everything from basic German sparkling wine to vermouth. Its wine was flat and had no acidity, and the hot summers and hot winds from the Sahara sweeping over this part of Italy were to blame.

Now, however, with the help of ëflying winemakers', winemaking in this region is moving from bulk blending wine to quality bottled wine. One grape grown in Apuglia likely to bring forth some great wines in the near future is Primitivo, allegedly the forefather of California's old-vine Zinfandel.

But the Negroamaro variety is still the region's real hallmark. This black grape, which has adapted to local conditions over the centuries, can produce seriously good substantial red wines, if well vinified. Salice Salentino is the best-known of the DOC's in the Salento Peninsula made from this Negroamaro, usually somewhat tempered by blending in a pinch of Malvasia Nera.

This week's tasting sample was a bottle of Salice Salentino of the 1995 vintage produced by Taurino. The wine had matured for more than two years before release and therefore the word ëriserva' was also prominent on the label. Such a riserva is stronger (13 % alcohol by volume) and has more of a fruity bouquet.

It matched heavenly well with a pair of oven-grilled quails resting side by side on a nest of glazed spring onions, as it would make for perfect accompaniment to any highly flavoured meat dish.

Deciphered tasting scribbles read: "a deep ruby coloured, full-bodied ripe and chocolatey wine which reminds you of red flowers and eucalyptus, smooth on the palate and has a little naughty depth of flavour that's reminiscent of plums".

Remember: Sa-lee-CHAY Sah-len-TEE-noh!