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What a Week

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Wine today



What a week!

Spearheading the Corinthia Hotels International food operation is 32-year-old Stefan Hogan.


interview by zillah bugeja
photo by pippa zammit cutajar

As regional head chef, I have final responsibility for everything that’s produced in the Corinthia Group’s hotels. I support the head chefs, and we come up with menus, do the costings, develop new products, the whole gamut.

I’ve moved away from my role on the stove. In my work as financial manager I am responsible for the profits of the department, so the cost of foods and operational costs are part and parcel of my daily routine. This is a serious business, and we can’t forget that we’re here to make money at the end of the day.

The head chefs and I meet once a month, that is six of us, and we discuss all the issues in a friendly and open way. Because we regularly eat at each other’s restaurants, we are able to offer advice and criticism. Being open is a critical part of the job, and we also take each customers’ comments very seriously. We find solutions to the problems that come up during service, such as the shortage of pork and chicken which we’ve had to face recently.

What we have to keep in mind is that we are offering the guests a total experience, so we are switched on to being customer-oriented. That includes the setting and the service. The local trade really do know how to eat, and the customer knows exactly what he wants and what he is willing to pay for it.

I think that food should be as simple as possible, and well presented. The more complex a dish is, the more the customer might feel ill at ease, to break it, you know. So the simpler the better, and that way the freshness of the product will come through.

I entered this profession because I simply love cooking, and I’m still hands-on. In fact on Saturday evenings you can see me at the Frejgatina cooking pasta. I like to actually cook because I enjoy the rapport between chefs, and it’s important for me to have a good relationship with everyone. There’s a different banter during service than when you call someone into your office.

My working day starts at 7.30am, when I’ll do the rounds of the breakfast buffet table. We make it a point to always include some traditional Maltese foods at breakfast, be it goats cheese, cheesecakes or qassatat. I take notes and pass on any comments to the breakfast chef on duty. At nine I attend the morning meeting, where we discuss any VIPs, outside catering, the day’s agenda.

Every week we throw a management cocktail party to which all the guests are invited. Last Wednesday it was on the Fra Martino terrace, we themed it ‘flavours of the Med’, and it’s always a great opportunity to mingle with guests and listen to them – you have to be focused on your clients. We always have quite a healthy turnout.

I just love what I do. I just love seeing my chefs producing good food for our customers. When I was nine, I’d spend most of my Sunday baking. I’d bake enough cakes and finger food for the whole week. By the time I was 12, I’d started making salads, and decorating the whole of my mum’s trays with garnish. I’d present it as well. My parents love cooking, and my mother will still ring me up, saying she’s bought a lovely pumpkin, and what should she do with it?

I enjoy all the facets of my job, which you need in order to do it properly. It’s rewarding to see that what you’re doing can translate into a final performance of how the hotel’s doing.

The job has also taken me abroad, and it gives Malta exposure to people who might have a pre-conceived idea of us and our food.

Coming up with new ideas is one of my good points. I spend a considerable amount of my time in the office, tailor-making menus and talking to clients, especially those who are booking a wedding. That way they will get a personalised service, knowing that they’re not just a number.

One of the highlights of my career was when we did the catering for 1,500 at Pinto Wharf. There were boats delivering the fish real-time, and seeing 40 chefs standing at 20 barbecues ready to start grilling… then there’s the pride of logistics. Something so rewarding takes a lot of hard work and effort on everyone’s part.

When the Acrobatic Pizzaioli were here recently, we made a wonderful fruit display for the press conference. Creating the wow factor is what it’s all about. It’s very much a part of our regional general manager’s philosophy, which trickles down to all members of staff. We’ve got to make our guests feel ‘wowed’ by their whole Corinthia experience. It’s believing that we are here to create repeat customers.

The earliest I finish work is 8pm and I’ll often cook myself a plate of pasta. I find cooking very therapeutic, but I never manage to cook for two, there’s always some left in the pot.

On my day off last Sunday I went to a wedding of one of the chefs at the Corinthia Marina. That’s where I got the tan, otherwise I’d be white. I never get a chance to go to the beach more than three times in a year. Summer is our busiest season and you have to very much focus.

When I do go home early, I spend quality time with my daughters Chantelle and Shannon. My wife Yvonne loves Henry J Beans, so when we do go out for a meal it’s often there. If I go elsewhere, I’d be keeping an eye on the competition, and it’s not as relaxing.

Pasta has to be my favourite food. My kitchen at home is semi-professional, with the butcher’s block and all the appliances. I can’t say I have a favourite sauce – I go to the supermarket, buy fresh vegetables, and on the way home I’ll see what I’m going to concoct.

Another aspect of my job which I especially enjoy is training. I was involved in craft training at the Khamsa in Tunisia, where armed with a French dictionary (although I do speak the language), I was training and at the same time, teaching how to train others in a systematic and conscious manner. Everything has to be explained, so that the rationale will be learned and passed on.

I’m very happy to be working with the ever-expanding Corinthia group. I’d like to be part of the pre-opening team of our overseas properties, because I find it an exciting opportunity to work to tight schedules.

I’ve done some lecturing at ITS and feel it’s nice to pass on your experience. Somehow the career of chef is chosen by more men than women. Within the group, we only have five female chefs. Maybe it’s the aggressive nature of the job, or the incredibly long hours that put them off. Also, the banter between chefs is not always flattering… we’re very much like the army.

But your colleagues do end up being your best friends, with your social life revolving around chefs too. So you really have to love what you do, and your wife has to be understanding, as mine is. Catering has to be a conscious decision: there’s no weekends and no public holidays. It’s not that tough if you love your job.





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E-mail: maltatoday@newsworksltd.com