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What
a week!
Spearheading the Corinthia Hotels International
food operation is 32-year-old Stefan Hogan.
interview
by zillah bugeja
photo
by pippa zammit cutajar
As regional
head chef, I have final responsibility for everything thats
produced in the Corinthia Groups hotels. I support the head
chefs, and we come up with menus, do the costings, develop new
products, the whole gamut.
Ive
moved away from my role on the stove. In my work as financial
manager I am responsible for the profits of the department, so
the cost of foods and operational costs are part and parcel of
my daily routine. This is a serious business, and we cant
forget that were here to make money at the end of the day.
The head
chefs and I meet once a month, that is six of us, and we discuss
all the issues in a friendly and open way. Because we regularly
eat at each others restaurants, we are able to offer advice
and criticism. Being open is a critical part of the job, and we
also take each customers comments very seriously. We find
solutions to the problems that come up during service, such as
the shortage of pork and chicken which weve had to face
recently.
What we have
to keep in mind is that we are offering the guests a total experience,
so we are switched on to being customer-oriented. That includes
the setting and the service. The local trade really do know how
to eat, and the customer knows exactly what he wants and what
he is willing to pay for it.
I think that
food should be as simple as possible, and well presented. The
more complex a dish is, the more the customer might feel ill at
ease, to break it, you know. So the simpler the better, and that
way the freshness of the product will come through.
I entered
this profession because I simply love cooking, and Im still
hands-on. In fact on Saturday evenings you can see me at the Frejgatina
cooking pasta. I like to actually cook because I enjoy the rapport
between chefs, and its important for me to have a good relationship
with everyone. Theres a different banter during service
than when you call someone into your office.
My working
day starts at 7.30am, when Ill do the rounds of the breakfast
buffet table. We make it a point to always include some traditional
Maltese foods at breakfast, be it goats cheese, cheesecakes or
qassatat. I take notes and pass on any comments to the breakfast
chef on duty. At nine I attend the morning meeting, where we discuss
any VIPs, outside catering, the days agenda.
Every week
we throw a management cocktail party to which all the guests are
invited. Last Wednesday it was on the Fra Martino terrace, we
themed it flavours of the Med, and its always
a great opportunity to mingle with guests and listen to them
you have to be focused on your clients. We always have quite a
healthy turnout.
I just love
what I do. I just love seeing my chefs producing good food for
our customers. When I was nine, Id spend most of my Sunday
baking. Id bake enough cakes and finger food for the whole
week. By the time I was 12, Id started making salads, and
decorating the whole of my mums trays with garnish. Id
present it as well. My parents love cooking, and my mother will
still ring me up, saying shes bought a lovely pumpkin, and
what should she do with it?
I enjoy all
the facets of my job, which you need in order to do it properly.
Its rewarding to see that what youre doing can translate
into a final performance of how the hotels doing.
The job has
also taken me abroad, and it gives Malta exposure to people who
might have a pre-conceived idea of us and our food.
Coming up
with new ideas is one of my good points. I spend a considerable
amount of my time in the office, tailor-making menus and talking
to clients, especially those who are booking a wedding. That way
they will get a personalised service, knowing that theyre
not just a number.
One of the
highlights of my career was when we did the catering for 1,500
at Pinto Wharf. There were boats delivering the fish real-time,
and seeing 40 chefs standing at 20 barbecues ready to start grilling
then theres the pride of logistics. Something so rewarding
takes a lot of hard work and effort on everyones part.
When the
Acrobatic Pizzaioli were here recently, we made a wonderful fruit
display for the press conference. Creating the wow factor is what
its all about. Its very much a part of our regional
general managers philosophy, which trickles down to all
members of staff. Weve got to make our guests feel wowed
by their whole Corinthia experience. Its believing that
we are here to create repeat customers.
The earliest
I finish work is 8pm and Ill often cook myself a plate of
pasta. I find cooking very therapeutic, but I never manage to
cook for two, theres always some left in the pot.
On my day
off last Sunday I went to a wedding of one of the chefs at the
Corinthia Marina. Thats where I got the tan, otherwise Id
be white. I never get a chance to go to the beach more than three
times in a year. Summer is our busiest season and you have to
very much focus.
When I do
go home early, I spend quality time with my daughters Chantelle
and Shannon. My wife Yvonne loves Henry J Beans, so when we do
go out for a meal its often there. If I go elsewhere, Id
be keeping an eye on the competition, and its not as relaxing.
Pasta has
to be my favourite food. My kitchen at home is semi-professional,
with the butchers block and all the appliances. I cant
say I have a favourite sauce I go to the supermarket, buy
fresh vegetables, and on the way home Ill see what Im
going to concoct.
Another aspect
of my job which I especially enjoy is training. I was involved
in craft training at the Khamsa in Tunisia, where armed with a
French dictionary (although I do speak the language), I was training
and at the same time, teaching how to train others in a systematic
and conscious manner. Everything has to be explained, so that
the rationale will be learned and passed on.
Im
very happy to be working with the ever-expanding Corinthia group.
Id like to be part of the pre-opening team of our overseas
properties, because I find it an exciting opportunity to work
to tight schedules.
Ive
done some lecturing at ITS and feel its nice to pass on
your experience. Somehow the career of chef is chosen by more
men than women. Within the group, we only have five female chefs.
Maybe its the aggressive nature of the job, or the incredibly
long hours that put them off. Also, the banter between chefs is
not always flattering
were very much like the army.
But your
colleagues do end up being your best friends, with your social
life revolving around chefs too. So you really have to love what
you do, and your wife has to be understanding, as mine is. Catering
has to be a conscious decision: theres no weekends and no
public holidays. Its not that tough if you love your job.
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