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in wine
today
Getting
physical
By
Georges Meekers
Some of the most common elements in describing wine are actually
quite exuberant and sexy. Yes, exploring wines may very well lead
you straight from the cellar into the bedroom. Wine has got a
nose, a body too, and guess what, to complete its anatomy, it
also has legs.
The study of a wines legs is absorbing, thirsty work, best
done with a large glass only one third full.
Swirl the wine round in the glass. Hold the glass up to the light
or against a white backdrop. You will see that the wine forms
tears on the inside surface of the glass which then arch before
slipping slowly leaving legs in their wake. The size, spacing
and shape of the legs depend on the viscosity, the glycerine content
and the temperature of the wine.
If at first, you dont get long and shapely legs, try again.
It sometimes takes several bottles before the pair of legs of
your dreams comes sliding down your glass.
But lets not get too hung up on appearance. Wine is also
the only natural beverage that offers a complete and complex palette
of aromas and flagrances, besides flavour of course.
Orange juice smells like orange juice, milk like milk. But wine
has a nose, unless the wine is still young and undeveloped. Then,
its whiff is called aroma. For an older complex wine, the term
used is bouquet.
Body is more an issue of weight or density, as you might have
guessed. While a light wine leaves little palate impression, a
wine with more body feels heavier and richer in the mouth. Density
may come from a high alcohol level or the presence of residual
sugar, but most often from a combination of the two. Compare a
dry Riesling with a late-harvest one.
Simply remember that body is more a mixture of sensations than
a precise measurement. One could describe it as the oral equivalent
of cupping a perfectly formed pair of bare buttocks in your two
hands.
Connoisseurs often go overboard when describing a full-bodied
wine as chewy, profound, orotund, silky or velvety, but of course,
theres much to say for just perfectly formed buttocks, although
the only trouble is you cant drink them.
Cheers and be candid from swirl to finish!
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