Toulouse | La vie en rose

Surrounded on all sides by water, the city's cobbled streets weave their way down to the River Garonne where locals sun themselves in summer. Despite being France's fourth largest city, Toulouse has the feeling of an overgrown village with sausages sizzling on street corners and the best cassoulet and foie gras served in every café.

What to do?

For a cultural fix visit Basilique Saint-Sernin, the largest surviving Romanesque church in the world. Built in the 11^th and 12^th centuries, it was an essential stopping point on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. A typically Romanesque church the bell tower had two levels added when a neighbouring church built a tower taller than the one at Basilique Saint Sernin. The extra two levels, built in a different era, were built in Gothic style. Inside lies the tomb of St Saturnin (Sernin), whose act of martydom was to be tied to a bull and dragged through the streets.

The grandeur of Saint Sernin is amplified by the simplicity of the Jacobin Convent. The Dominicans built the church in the 13^th and 14^th century to show that a place of worship need not be extravagant, and used a simple double-nave structure. The brick building is built in Southern France Gothic style with red bricks and stained glass windows. The palm tree - the most famous ribbed vault in the church are reflected in a mirror at the foot of the colomn making visitors feel like they are looking into an empty swimming pool.

The Place du Capitole is the heart of the city. Its square is dominated but the city hall, displaying paintings by Toulouse-born artist Henri Martin in its grand chambers. The square is often the site of exhibitions and youngster gathering for demonstrations. Surrounded by trendy cafes, this is a great spot to sit and grab a coffee and watch the world go by. Explore the boulevards that snake out from the square and wander towards the river.

Hire a bike and cycle through the city's cycle points and along the Garonne banks lined with food, art and craft stalls at the weekend.

The Pont Neuf links the two banks of the river. The oldest bridge in Toulouse, built in the 16^th century, has remained erect through some of Toulouse's worst floods due to large overflow holes that remove pressure from the bridge when the Garonne is swollen.

Where to stay?

There's loads to do in Toulouse so if you're just looking for somewhere to rest your head at night for good value try Le Cousture, www.lecousture.com. A small hotel in the heart of it all, the three-star Le Cousture offers clean rooms with friendly service for good value for money.

Stumble out of light, spacious bedrooms with gorgeous views to freshly baked goods and lashings of home-made jam at Sylviane Tatin's Loges de Saint-Sernin, www.dormiratoulouse.net.

For opulence Hotel de l'Opera is Toulouse's finest address with sumptuous rooms overlooking the Place du Capitole, www.grand-hotel-opera.com.

For a riverside setting try the Hotel des Beaux Arts by the Garonne www.hoteldesbeauxarts.com. 

Where to eat?

The Place Saint Georges, once the largest in the city, used to be a place of assembly where markets were set up. Today is better known for its bustling terraces and people meeting up for dinner or drinks. Monsieur Georges, www.monsieurgeorges.fr, is a small but trendy restaurant popular with the locals and serving the very best Toulouse has to offer. Try the foie gras au torchon, cooked and hung in a lowly tea towel, for a slice of heaven on toast. The goose liver flavour is subtle whilst retaining a creamy, buttery texture. Toulouse is home of the cassoulet, so try this rich, hearty stew made with duck, pork sausages and beans. Monsieur Georges' version is not to be missed.

For regional cuisine with a meaty focus try Chez Carmen for nose-to-tail eating.

Chef Pierre Lambinon is causing a stir at Le Py-r, www.py-r.com, transforming ingredients like foie gras and succulent scallops and pigeon into an art form.

For a taste of the region's famed cassoulet try Le Genty Magre www.legentymagre.com, but leave room for waffles for dessert.

How to get there?

Air France operates flights from Malta to Toulouse from €45 each way, inclusive of all baggage costs, beverages and a snack on the plane. Flights are operated twice weekly on Saturdays and Sundays.

More information is available from the Toulouse tourism centre www.uk.toulouse-tourisme.com.