Legendary Italian fashion designer Valentino Garavani dies aged 93

The couturier famed for “Valentino red” and for dressing generations of royalty and Hollywood stars passed away in Rome, leaving behind a global fashion empire and a legacy of timeless glamour

Valentino Garavani, one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century and a symbol of Italian elegance, has died at the age of 93.

His Rome-based foundation announced that Valentino passed away on Monday at his residence in the Italian capital, surrounded by his loved ones. A lying in state will be held on Wednesday and Thursday, with a funeral planned for Friday in Rome.

Best known simply as Valentino, the designer spent nearly five decades dressing some of the world’s most famous women, from Jackie Kennedy and Princess Diana to Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Julia Roberts and Gwyneth Paltrow. His creations, often distinguished by the rich hue that became known as “Valentino red”, became synonymous with luxury, romance and glamour.

Women’s Wear Daily once dubbed him the “Sheik of Chic”, while The New York Times praised his “single-minded dedication to glamour”. His personal life reflected the same devotion to opulence, with homes in Rome, New York and Paris, a chalet in Switzerland, a private jet and a 50-metre yacht, as well as his much-loved pet pugs that frequently appeared by his side.

Born on May 11, 1932, in the northern Italian town of Voghera, Valentino was named after silent film star Rudolph Valentino. His father ran an electric cables business, but from a young age Valentino showed a fascination with fashion and beauty, famously asking for made-to-measure shoes as a child.

At 17, he left Italy to study in Paris, where he was influenced by the refined couture of Christian Dior. He later worked for designers Jean Desses and Guy Laroche, gaining experience dressing wealthy clients and European aristocracy.

In 1960, he returned to Italy and opened his own fashion house in Rome, then a thriving centre of cinema and celebrity thanks to Cinecittà studios. He was joined by Giancarlo Giammetti, his long-time partner and business collaborator, who helped turn the label into a global brand.

Valentino’s breakthrough came in 1962 with his debut collection in Florence, where his signature red first appeared. But it was his relationship with Jackie Kennedy that propelled him to international fame. After dressing her extensively, she chose one of his ivory lace gowns for her 1968 wedding to Aristotle Onassis, a moment that brought Valentino enormous attention in the United States.

By 1970, he became the first Italian designer to open a boutique in New York, helping elevate the “Made in Italy” label to worldwide prestige.

Valentino retired from the runway in 2008 after presenting his final haute couture collection in Paris, ending a career that spanned nearly half a century. Fashion critic Suzy Menkes described that farewell show as a return to his fantasy of ultra-feminine glamour, with pastel dresses, feathered accessories and ribbon-tied heels.

In later years, his legacy was celebrated through exhibitions and the launch of the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum in 2011, the world’s first digital museum dedicated to a fashion house.

Reflecting on his career before retirement, Valentino once said he hoped to be remembered “as a man who pursued beauty whenever he could.” For many in the fashion world, his death marks the end of an era defined by elegance, craftsmanship and unapologetic glamour.