A pinch of salt
Wars have been fought over it, empires built on it and taxes levied on it. The inexpensive condiment that is salt has been used for centuries both to preserve food and to add flavour.
Rachel Zammit Cutajar
Salt is a mineral compound, sodium chloride, without which animal species cannot survive. What first comes to mind when we think about salt is refined table salt that has been mined from underground sources and has added iodine and ant-clumping agents. However specialised salts do exist and are becoming more and more popular among today’s gourmets.
Few recipes call for the use of specialised salts, however there are numerous varieties of salt and each contributes a different flavour to the dish. The variances are subtle but they are there, and to an educated palate the differences can be quite striking.
Sea salt – This salt is harvested by channelling sea water into large salt pans and allowing the water to evaporate leaving the glistening, white salt crystals. As the salt is not refined it often contains trace minerals such as iron, zinc, calcium, iodine and potassium. It normally comes in three grinds from fine to coarse.
Kosher salt or rock salt – Unlike common table salt kosher is a coarse salt that does not contain iodine, although some brands will contain a small amount of anti-clumping agents. It takes it name for the curing process used on kosher meats. It has a mild flavour and is generally preferred by professional chefs to table salt. Its flaky structure helps it adhere to surfaces from fish to margarita glasses.
Fleur de Sel – Literally meaning “flower of the sea” it is made up from crystals that form naturally on the surface of the salt evaporation ponds and are harvested under specified conditions. Most Fleur de Sel comes from Guerande in France and has an unusal and delicate flavour that makes it an ideal salt to use in salads, on vegetables and grilled meats. It is also being used in a variety of desserts such as caramels.
Black salt – Largely composed of sodium chloride, this South Asian condiment includes several impurities, including a sulpher content that gives it its pungent smell and taste. The salt crystals are black in colour and turn pink when ground into a powder. Black salt is extensively used in South Asian cuisine of India and Pakistan as a condiment to chaats, chutneys, fruit, raitas and other savour Indian snacks. Those not accustomed to the flavours of black Indian salt compare its smell to that of rotten eggs.
Himalayan pink salt – Although harvested from the foot of the Himalayan mountains this is technically a sea salt. It is a marine fossil salt, formed eons ago and carries trace minerals. Its crystals range from off-white to lustrous pink and is used is said to have properties beneficial to health. It is generally used as a finishing salt.
Celery salt – This is a flavoured salt used as a seasoning made with ground seeds that come from celery or its relative lovage. The ground seeds are then mixed with table salt or sea salt and used in Bloody Mary cocktails, hotdogs, salads and stews. It also livens up a coleslaw.
Gourmet salt is now finding its way into 21st century cocktails and caramels. Chocolatiers love it and some even use salt in their hot chocolate. For a simple alternative dessert serve chocolate ice cream with good quality salt crystals. Though a small amount of salt is required to sustain life, overconsumption can lead to health problems such as high blood pressure.
