Beyond the ruins: Abandoned White Rocks complex repossessed by the community

Situated on the coast of Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq, the White Rocks complex offers stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Once a vibrant military barracks characterised by the modernist architecture of Richard England and later repurposed as a holiday complex for British servicemen in the 1960s, the site has since fallen into disrepair.

Nonetheless, on any given day, families and groups of friends can be found scattered across the open landscape, enjoying picnics with sea views while small groups of joggers take advantage of the quiet space.

Skaters and cyclists have transformed the empty roads into a playground, perfect for tricks and smooth rides whilst photographers and urban explorers are drawn to its captivating charm.

After being vacated in the 1990s, numerous redevelopment plans were proposed. During the Gonzi administration before 2013, plans were drawn up for a luxury tourist village and sports complex. Later, the Muscat administration toyed with the idea of a village of luxury units. None of the plans ever materialised.

Today, the buildings stand as a reminder of Malta’s historical past and to an extent its forgotten projects. But the abandoned complex has been appropriated as a space for enjoyment, freedom and discovery by people of different ages as I discovered during a recent visit.

The murals

As I step through the entrance of the abandoned complex, which falls within the confines of the Pembroke council, two massive murals immediately caught my eye. Each one stretches across the entire side of a three-storey-high building, standing tall against the backdrop of the sea.

These striking paintings are hidden from view from the busy Coast Road, making them a hidden treasure for those who come across them.

One of the murals features a well-known character—the Monopoly man. With his thick moustache and signature top hat, he sits in a cart pulled by four strong oxen. The painting is full of details, bringing the scene to life.

The second mural is more mysterious and thought-provoking. It portrays a woman, her expression calm yet intense, as she gently holds the world in her hands. The name of the author is placed at the bottom, partially hidden behind a small patch of grass.

The first artwork was created by Maltese street artist James Micallef Grimaud, who goes by the name Twitch, and the second by Mark Taylor, known as Meataxe. Taylor passed away in February.

At 35 years old, Micallef Grimaud has built a strong reputation in the street art scene. This particular project was completed in just six days during a summer some years ago, turning the abandoned building into an open-air art gallery.

His mural, the monopoly man, sends a strong message about power, justice, and society.

I speak to Grimaud over the phone and he explains his mural carries a social message, using well-known symbols to highlight how people in power often escape accountability. He points to the Monopoly man, saying it represents how powerful individuals often dominate society. In front of him, a €10 note is seen hanging on a butcher’s hook, a symbol of how money controls everything.

A commentary on today’s world

Behind the Monopoly man, there is a cart carrying a statue of Lady Justice with her blindfold pushed up so she can see. She is positioned near factory buildings and a Wall Street building. These symbols, Grimaud emphasises, reflect how the financial and justice systems operate today—where power, money, and justice are in the hands of a few.

Twitch’s murals frequently tackle serious topics like politics and social issues. For him, street art is not just about painting walls but about provoking thought and questioning the world around us. He believes that his mural at White Rocks, like his others, is a commentary on today’s world.

He tells me that he originally started painting the mural before a festival was even planned in the area. “They were organising a festival, so I told them about this place,” he says. “I showed it to them, and they liked it.”

Micallef Grimaud says he saw the building as a canvas. “It’s falling to bits, but it’s got character,” he says. “And it’s actually a nice spot, when I was fixing the mural, grandparents came with their grandkids. It’s educational.”

Twitch has restored the mural over the years, covering up vandalism, stating that he continues to fix the mural as people stop and talk about it.

When I ask about the second mural, Twitch confirms it was painted by Mark Taylor. “The mural shows a woman holding an apple shaped like the Earth. It’s about greed; the same subject as mine.”

He adds: “She’s eating the world. The apple is the Earth. It’s very relevant to now.”

On the street art scene in Malta, Micallef Grimaud sees potential, but also a need for understanding. “There’s a difference between graffiti and murals,” he insists. “Graffiti can be beautiful, or it can be bad. You can’t generalise. It’s like driving; you can do it right, or you can be reckless.”

He believes more public art is needed to offset what he calls “visual pollution.”

“There are buildings everywhere; no planning. It’s all concrete. That’s visual pollution,” he tells me, making a case for more creativity in the streets.

The White Rocks complex was once abandoned, but now it’s full of street art. Twitch’s mural is one of the better-known ones. The area is now a mix of colourful graffiti and murals, some beautiful, some bold; all inviting people to walk around, think, and explore.

The potential of repurpose

White Rocks is a living art gallery and even though big development plans never happened; the area has taken on a new life. People now use the space in their own ways. I saw youngsters skating, others jogging, some exploring, and others simply spending time outdoors.

Pembroke Mayor Kaylon Zammit believes the site has potential. “It can be repurposed in so many ways,” he says when I contact him. “It’s a huge area and it’s a waste if it’s not reused.”

While there have been no formal talks with the authorities, Zammit says the council would be open to discussing and proposing ideas for how the space can be used. “If as a council we can actually put forward ideas on how the area can be reused, it would be a good idea.”

The buildings may be crumbling, but there’s still a strong feeling of life and creativity. The murals speak for themselves, and they’ve turned the space into more than just a forgotten project but a conversation.

After all, White Rocks has found a new purpose through the community that keeps coming back.