Mainz – living in Frankfurt’s shadow

Why go?

Go to Mainz for its sheer architectural variety, packed with rustic Roman structures, half timbered houses, elaborately embellished churches and a scattering of Baroque buildings painted in soft pinks and bright yellows.

The city has been a creative inspiration for figures such as painter Marc Chagall, who designed the stained glass windows of St Stephen’s Church, as well as Johannes Gutenberg, who in the 15th century revolutionised printing by developing moveable type, enabling books to be mass produced.

These days the city’s food markets and many excellent cafes and restaurants are reason enough to visit.

What to do?

The city’s focal point is St Martin’s Cathedral, with its impressive octagonal, red-brick tower. Head inside to experience its eight-second echo before taking a tour of the Diocesan Museum next door, which houses jewel-encrusted pieces and tapestries from as far back as the 10th century. Right outside is Marktplatz (Market Square) – as the name suggests, the site held for a market on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Here, you can pick up some local delicacies – Mainz is famous for its cheese, wine and sausage – before enjoying one of the regular lunchtime concerts. Stroll across the square to the Gutenberg Museum (www.gutenberg-museum.de) and ask to watch the film in English that introduces this local hero’s life and works.

Head north, past Staatstheater and its church-like windows, towards St Stephen’s Church. The modern façade, rebuilt after it was bomb-damaged in the Second World War, has been sympathetically designed to echo the Gothic architecture of the original 13th century structure. The real wonder is inside: the luminous stained-glass windows designed by Chagall.

Wander downhill into the Old Town, perhaps stopping for ice-cream along the way, to Kirschegarten, a picturesque square with half-timbered buildings, before taking a stroll along the Augustinerstrasse-mile, the city’s oldest high street, packed with fine wines, leather goods, jewellery and art.

Take a break from shopping to admire the beautiful 18th century St Augustine church. Check out the tiny Carnival Museum for a worthwhile insight into the city’s annual parade.

End your afternoon with a walk along the Rhine for some alternative views of the city.

Try the local coffee and cakes at one of the cafés by the cathedral, that offer impressive views and offer treats such as kasetort, a baked cheesecake with marzipan and nuts.

Where to stay?

Situated in a romantic spot but the river, the Hyatt Regency (www.regency.hyatt.com) synchronises 19th century with modern luxury; its charming bar, elegant restaurant, pool and spa make for perfect indulgence.

Choose a more central spot  at Hof Ehernfels (www.hof-ehrenfels.de) in the picturesque Old Town. The Atrium Hotel (www.atrium-mainz.de) is comfortable and centrally located with a pretty garden.

Where to eat?

Mainz is not short of restaurants: you will find a pretzel stand, café or wine tavern at almost every corner. For authentic cuisine and atmosphere head to Eisgrub-Bräu (www.eisgrub.de). This former ice-cellar brews three types of beer and serves gastro-pub style dishes: from schnitzel to spundekase (a cream cheese dip).

Rhingold riverside restaurant (www.rheingold-mainz.com) offers a modern Italian menu in slick surroundings with a New York vibe. The menu features flammkuchen (thin, square pizza) and a delectable chocolate soufflé.

Enjoy a long lunch outside at the Bellpepper (www.mainz.regency.hyatt.com) with views of the river.

Favourite at the Park Hotel (www.favorite-mainz.de) offers a fine dining experience.

How to get there?

Lufthansa and Air Malta fly daily Frankfurt (approximately €320 on both airlines*). Trains go from Frankfurt to Mainz up to five times an hour and are 35-45 minutes in duration, most of which are direct.

*Air fares were calculated for next week and may vary.

For more information please log on to www.mainz.de.