Phuket - sand, sea and tradition

Phuket is one of Thailand’s most famous destinations for sun, sand and warm waters, attracting a range of tourists from honeymooners to surf-seekers, families and party-goers. Though the turquoise water and white sands on the Amdaman coast of Phuket make you want to quit your job and live in flip flops forever, there is more the island than meets the eye and if you take the time to get away from the resorts and all-inclusives you’ll be richly rewarded with authentic Thai experiences.

The white sands and turquoise waters make Phuket island an idyllic holiday destination (Photo: Hauke Eggert)
The white sands and turquoise waters make Phuket island an idyllic holiday destination (Photo: Hauke Eggert)

Phang Nga Bay has to be one of Thailand's most beautiful destinations with huge limestone karsts that jut out of the emerald green waters. Though Phang Nga was devastated by the 2004 tsunami there has been considerable progress since and tourists have returned to the beautiful spot. Take a boat trip and leisurely take in James Bond Island (Koh Ta-pu to the Thais), made famous by The Man with the Golden Gun, Koh Panyee, a small village built on stilts among many other islands. Get on a kayak and absorb the sheer beauty of the limestone cliffs and the hongs of Phang Nga, the collapsed cave system that is rich with unspoiled flora and fauna.

The hedonistic centre of Phuket, Soi Bangla awakens when the sun sets. Whether you're looking for a few beers, a meal, a night of dancing or a sinful night of transvestite cabarets fuelled with buckets of alcohol, Patong's outdoor party zone is the place to be.

The Big Buddha can be seen from most of southern Phuket. 25 metres across and 45 metres high, the Burmese marble image of the Buddha is a sign of hope and faith. Some of the best 360° views of the island can be seen by the Buddha and those who visit. Some of the 1,000 daily visitors leave moving messages for loved ones that have passed away.

(Photo by Hauke Eggert)

Despite Phuket's foreign influence, the numerous temples around the island pay homage to the Thai people's religious and cultural traditions. Visit some of the many temples to learn more about Buddhism and Taoism by sitting down and having a chat with the friendly monks. Just remember to dress appropriately and women avoid direct contact with the monks.

The provincial capital of Phuket Province, Old Phuket Town is an eclectic mix of old and new, where traditional temples rub shoulders with trendy bars and art galleries. The town was built on riches reaped from Phuket's tin boom of the last century and the grandiose is evident in the colonial mansions once occupied by the tin barons.

(Photo by Hauke Eggert)

The weekend market, just outside the Old Town, located along Chao Fa West Road is worth a visit even if you don't intend to buy anything. Starting at 4pm just as the sun loses its savage sting, you can find all sorts of items for sale from second hand goods, pirated items, all sorts of electronics and live animals. Be sure the stop at the food court where you can sample a selection of exotic fruit, grilled meats, fishcakes, spicy sausages, barbequed corn on the cob and even fried insects all washed down with an ice-cold beer.

As beautiful as the island is above the water so it is underneath. Hop onto a live aboard boat for anywhere between two days and two weeks and take a tour of the Similain and Surin Islands, voted some of the best dive sites in the world where huge whale sharks, manta rays, sharks and turtles are not uncommon sightings. Though a little bit pricey, the trip includes accommodation for the duration, all meals and snacks and air tanks and for the blissful hours under the 30 degree water its well worth every penny you part with.  

If you're planning a trip around late September or beginning of October make sure you're there for the Vegetarian Festival. Despite Phuket's reputation as the city of sin, Thais go on a nine day detox for spiritual cleansing, abstaining for alcohol, meat and sex to achieve peace of mind. Rangong Road is lined with stalls selling brightly coloured vegetables, however this is not the highlight of the festival.

Save indulgence in the beautiful fruit and vegetables for the afternoon as the morning procession is enough to turn even the strongest of stomachs. The mah song - horses of the gods in Thai - appear in the streets with sharp objects piercing their cheeks in what appears to be a competition as to who can get the bulkiest object through their faces, blood trickling onto their torsos. It is said that the more pain they endure the more success they will have in the coming year. The mah song are chosen to endure this ritual to ward off evil spirits from the community.

How to get there?

Emirates offer daily services between Malta and Phuket with a convenient stop over in Dubai. Flights departing from Malta on 23 May and returning on 6 June were priced at €906.45 including tax, at the time of going to print. Total flying time is approximately 14 hours.

Long haul flights are always tough but aboard Emirates, life doesn't seem so difficult. Travelling in business class, my journey was a lot more comfortable that I would have imagined with seats that recline into an almost flat position allowing for some sort of sleep on the plane to arrive fresh and ready for action. Wake up to breakfast served with a smile, despite the early hours and amount of time staff have been awake tending to every customer's whim. The ICE entertainment system offers so many new movies the hardest part is to choose which ones to watch - so much so that once the plane lands you are little reluctant to get off! Gone are the days when you need to think of things to take with you on the plane to keep you entertained for hours on end as Emirates has done it for you.