Beyond the sea | Sardinia

Why go?

Sardinia is a land of many hidden beauties, where centuries-old traditions are a core element of life. Away from the usual tourist hotspots lies a side of Sardinia that is usually missed by the average visitor to the island. Some of the world’s most ancient archaeological sites can be found in Sardinia, such as the Nuraghe. A number of grottos and other places of natural beauty are also visible across the island.

What to do?

A trip to Sardinia is not complete without a stop in the Costa Semeralda. The white sandy beaches and clear blue waters, golf club, private jet and helicopter service and hotels costing up to €2,000 a night in peak season has attracted celebrities, business leaders and other affluent visitors. Watch the polo matches between April and October and the sailing regatta in September.

The thermal baths of Fordongianus offer evidence of the ancient centre of Forum Traiani that rose during the imperial epoch as a meeting point between the territories under Roman ruling and the barbarian civilisations inland.

Take a one-hour boat trip through Neptune’s Grotto, a remarkable series of caves just outside Alghero. Take in the dramatic coastline surrounding the limestone headland, Capo Caccia. Alternatively, take a bus to Capo Caccia and climb down the 654 steps to reach the caves below.

Su Gorropu Gorge is with no doubt one of the most impressive natural beauties on the island. It opens up in the Supramonte between the calcareous rocks of mount Iddeu and of the Cuccuttos peak. Dug by the force of the Flumineddu river waters the gorge looks like an actual canyon with dizzy heights of over 500 metres. Take a guided tour to the bottom in spring and summer as in the autumn rain can make the river paths unsafe.

Take the trenino verde for an excursion of the unspoilt countryside on board an old steam train for a step back in time. Pick one of the stops along the way to explore the countryside and enjoy a typical Sardinian meal in one of the many agroturismos.

Where to stay?

Request a room to the rear of the Hotel Costa Dorada (www.hotelcostadorada.it) away from the bustling seafront street and enjoy the exceptional Sardinian food amid a glorious garden. Rooms are spacious and the hotel bar is beautifully furnished.

The stunning Hotel Il Querceto (www.ilquerceto.com) is 8km away from Cala Gonone with exceptional pasta and traditional food. This is one of the region’s high-end destinations and has undergone a multi-million euro expansion.

Located a short walk away from the other-wordly Ispinigoli caves Hotel Ispinigoli (www.hotelispinigoli.com) has incredible views across vineyards and olive groves. An outdoor cooking room is used to roast suckling pigs over a fire.

Located 300m from the sea and 600km from the town check out Hotel Villa Gustui (www.villagustuimaris.it) for four star accommodation with stunning views.

Where to eat?

Bue Marino (www.hotelbuemarino.it) specialises in fish, displaying the daily catch in the reception area. Choose from lobster, sea bream or mora moro – a deep sea cod, and the chef will cook it for you.

The best views and best ‘home-style’ food in town are at Hotel L’Oasi (www.loasihotel.it). Don’t leave before sampling some soft and unctuous amaretti biscuits or frue cheese with tomato served on pane carasu.

High quality food from one of the region’s best kitchens comes from Hotel Miramare. Its pasta and seafood are particularly impressive. Try the fregula in crustacean sauce – a five star dish.

Sant’ Elene (www.hotelsantelene.it) is a pastoral paradise high in the hills where authentic food is served amid peaceful sounds. Traditional dishes are a treat. Ask for casu muchidu – a very strong cheese writhing with the albino larvae of mosquitos – but don’t offer to pay, as it is illegal to sell.